Acrobat sweater
-knitting pattern
acrobat sweater is a pattern for knitting by hand a pullover for some cold weather acrobatics. the arms of the sweater have a gusset in the armpit, allowing for full range of movement of the arms without the bottom of the sweater climbing up constantly.
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ACROBAT SWEATER
Sizes: XS or L (L in brackets in the pattern)
Bust circumference: size XS is about 100cm, size L about 130cm. Measure taken before armpit gusset has been decreased out. For reference the smaller person in the picture has a bust circumference of 80cm and the larger person 98cm.
Length: adjust to preference
Gauge: 14sts x 21 rows = 10 x 10 cm
Needles: 6mm /80 cm circular needle and 4,5mm for the rib at neckline, hem and sleeves
Materials: Bulky / thicker Aran weight yarn of 110-130m / 100g
I used for the XS size about 450g of 130m/100g merino yarn by , and for the L size 650g of Rauma 3tr. strikkegarn (108m/50g) held double.
Note: This pattern has not been test knitted, but hey, it’s for free! I knit myself the two sizes pictured. To make the sweater a size in between should be easy to adjust.
The main purpose of this pattern was to sample the diamond gusset construction at the armpits of the sweater to allow for acrobatic movement, handstands in colder weather, and just the normal moving your hands around. I got fed up with all sweater patterns assuming people always keep their arms down.
I encourage you to finetune amount of stiches to reach the size to fit your body and preferred positive ease. Feel free to be creative with the colorwork as well! I have not added the colorwork I did for these sweaters, as I assume everyone has their own vision of what they would prefer to have on their sweaters. In pictures, the rib knit on the XS size sweater is k2p2, and on the L k1p1.
Youtube delivers great tutorials for italian cast on, italian cast off, decreases, raglan increases and german short rows.
PATTERN
Acrobat sweater is worked from the top down with raglan increases on the yoke. Short rows are worked at the back before dividing the work into the sleeves and the body to give space for movement of arms. A diamond-shaped gusset is knit in the armpits to allow lifting the arms completely without the bottom of the sweater climbing up.
About raglan increases
The raglan increases are worked on either side of 2 raglan stitches. When seen from the RS the raglan increases on the right side of the raglan stitches slant right (M1R), while the increases on the left side of the raglan stitches slant left (M1L). The increases are worked as follows:
M1R:
From the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then knit this strand.
From the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then purl this strand through the back loop (twisted).
M1L:
From the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then knit this strand through the back loop (twisted).
From the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then purl this strand.
Yoke
Cast on 80 (86) sts on the 4,5mm needles using the Italian cast-on method.
Join to knit in the round, making sure that the cast-on edge is not twisted, and place a marker for the beginning of the round (which will be in the middle of the back).
Work 5 cm in the round in rib (k1, p1).
Change to the 6 mm circular needles by knitting the sts onto the new needles. The yoke is worked in stockinette stitch.
Divide the sts on the needles for working raglan increases by placing stitch markers on either side of 2 raglan sts (a total of 8 stitch markers), as follows:
11 (12) sts (right side of back), place marker, 2 sts (raglan sts), place marker, 12 (13) sts (right sleeve), place marker, 2 sts (raglan sts), place marker, 26 (28) sts (front), place marker, 2 sts (raglan sts), place marker, 12 (13) sts (left sleeve), place marker, 2 sts (raglan sts), place marker, 11 (12)sts (left side of back).
Increases are worked as M1R just before every 1st raglan marker, and M1L just after the 2nd raglan marker.
Work raglan increases on every second row 8 (16) times. 8 sts added per raglan increase row.
Now shape the back with short rows worked over the back and sleeve sts. Use the German Short Rows technique for the turns, while working raglan increases on RS and WS rows at the same time, as follows (raglan increases are worked still on every second row, on while knitting WS on the right shoulder and RS on the left shoulder) :
Row 1 (RS): Knit from back center to first marker between back and right sleeve, slip marker, knit the 2 raglan sts, slip marker, knit until 20 (22) sts of the right sleeve sts remain – turn work
Row 2 (WS): Purl to first marker between back and right sleeve, M1L, slip marker, purl the 2 raglan sts, slip marker, M1R, purl the back sts until the marker between back and left sleeve, slip marker, purl 2 raglan sts, slip marker, purl until 20 (22) sts of the left sleeve sts remain – turn work.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to first marker between left sleeve and back, M1R, slip marker, knit the 2 raglan sts, slip marker, M1L, knit all the way to the right sleeve until 13 (15) sts of the right sleeve sts remain – turn work
Row 4 (WS): Purl to first marker between back and right sleeve, M1L, slip marker, purl the 2 raglan sts, slip marker, M1R, purl the back sts until the marker between back and left sleeve, slip marker, purl 2 raglan sts, slip marker, purl until 13 (15) sts of the left sleeve sts remain – turn work.
Row 5 (RS): Knit to first marker between left sleeve and back, M1R, slip marker, knit the 2 raglan sts, slip marker, M1L, knit all the way to the right sleeve until 6 (8) sts of the right sleeve sts remain – turn work
Row 6 (WS): Purl to first marker between back and right sleeve, M1L, slip marker, purl the 2 raglan sts, slip marker, M1R, purl the back sts until the marker between back and left sleeve, slip marker, purl 2 raglan sts, slip marker, purl until 6 (8) sts of the left sleeve sts remain – turn work.
Row 7 (RS): Knit to first marker between left sleeve and back, M1R, slip marker, knit the 2 raglan sts, slip marker, M1L, knit all the way to the center back.
Continue knitting in the round, working raglan increases every second row for 2 (6) more times.
For size XS: Continue knitting in the round working raglan increases every row for 6 more times (total of 212 sts).
For size L: Continue knitting in the round working raglan increases every second row only on the side of the body (not on the sleeves) 2 more times (total of 282 sts).
Divide the stiches into body and sleeves
Front 59 (76) sts, left sleeve 47 (63) sts, back 59 (80) sts, right sleeve 47 (63) sts – divisions are made between the 2 raglan sts.
Knit back sts until the armpit, place the sleeve sts to wait on spare yarn, cast on 9 (12) sts for the armpit, knit the front sts, place the sleeve sts to wait on spare yarn, cast on 9 (12) sts for the armpit, knit rest of back sts. Raglan markers remain in place, now there is 11 (14) sts between the markers for the armpit gusset.
Body
Continue working in the round, working decreases in the armpit gusset on rounds 1, 2, 6 and 16 (1, 2, 4, 7, 11, 17 and 27):
Knit until 1st marker of armpit, slip marker, SSK, knit armpit sts until 2 remain before 2nd marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until 1st marker of other armpit, slip marker, SSK, knit armpit sts until 2 remain before 2nd marker, k2tog, slip marker, k until end of the row.
After decreases are done continue knitting in the round until body is 4cm short of the length desired.
Switch to 4,5mm needles for bottom rib, k1 p1 for 4 cm and bind off sts with Italian bind off.
Sleeves
Pick up right sleeve sts from the spare yarn, and pick up 9 (12) sts from the cast on armpit sts. Armpit gusset decreases are worked like on body to create a diamond shape in the armpit.
Work decreases in the armpit gusset on rounds 1, 3, 6, 16 until 48 sts remain (1, 2, 5, 9, and continue decreases after this every 6th row until 52 sts remain).
For size S: knit 30 rows in the round without decreases. Then decrease 1sts at the beginning and end of every 8th row 5 times (10 sts decreased). If lenght is 4cm short of desired length, switch to 4,5mm needles for bottom rib, k1 p1 for 4 cm and bind off sts with Italian bind off.
For size L: Continue knitting in the round until sleeve is 4cm short of the length desired. Switch to 4,5mm needles for bottom rib, k1 p1 for 4 cm and bind off sts with Italian bind off.
Knit other sleeve with same instructions. Weave in all ends. Put your arms up in the air!
Abbreviations
k – knit
k2tog – decrease slanting towards the right – 1 sts decreased
M1L – make one left increase (see about raglan increases)
M1R – make one right increase (see about raglan increases)
p – purl
RS – right side of your work
SSK – decrease slanting towards the left – 1 sts decreased
sts – stiches
tog – together
WS – wrong side of your work
